Oh dear, David Wondrich, what have you done, my friend? It’s bad enough when someone like Rachel Ray turns her ham-handed hand to beer cocktails and makes a farce of them, but when the same is done by one of our own!? Man, that hurts.
I refer, of course, to your April column in Esquire, which espouses five simple beer cocktails. ‘Nuff credit for including the Porteree, which is essentially a makeshift Baltic porter on ice, and for getting spicy ginger beer into the Shandy Gaff, in place of the all-too-often-substituted ginger ale or lemon soda. And throwing the Berliner Weiss into the mix was nice, even though it’s hardly “the kind of beer you can find at the local Kwik-E-Mart.”
But what’s up with your own creation, the Groundskeeper? Ardbeg and Bud? What a disservice you do to the fine spirit of Islay, dear sir. If you really can’t handle the peatiness of such a dram, may I suggest that you try instead a little water, or even soda? Please?